The Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford has held a wondrous place in my imagination for many years now. I’ve heard it recalled countless times in conversations, works of fiction and fact, so it’s become something almost other, beyond the realms of this reality. Recently it kept cropping up more and more, so I just had to see it for myself.
Unbeknownst to me at the time I entered through the Museum of Natural History- and it was many hours until I realised the Pitt Rivers Museum was actually located at the back! Both are excellent places to lose yourself and I certainly did. I felt like a pinball bounding from one fascinating display to the next; there was so much to see that much of these transitions failed to pay the exhibits their due. It’s party to a great many species- past and present, predatory and prey, stuffed or skeletal, stationery or stalking.
For now I shall talk more about the atmosphere of the place, and following posts shall focus more on the exciting information laid bare to me.
A Grade 1 neo-Gothic building the Museum of Natural History crosses between a medieval church and elegant greenhouse. Its all high archways and pillars; stone and metal; expanses of glass and bright light. It is simply awe-inspiring. The main hall’s breadth spans four large archways, which repeat along its length curving to the glassy ceiling. The supporting pillars are made of several varying individuals- some narrow, some more rotund. Crowning these is a burst of pods, flowers and leaves, reaching curly tendrils ahead. Overall it gives the impression of something alive, unfurling and growing. There’s plenty of gold too, with even the iron arches hosting golden patterns. It’s a kind of Garden of Eden- something celebrated- elegant and grand. Corridors surround each floor and comprise a row of miniature archways each with a different pillar of polished stone and a plaque detailing it’s name and whereabouts: the building plays as exhibit too! Display cases mimic the architecture with their slanted roofs and pale wooden frames. They sit in rows as greenhouses in an allotment. Light dances and bounces on the panes in wiggles, bowed lines and pregnant shapes whilst spotlights disperse star-like reflections.
Then it got even better! I happened upon the Pitt Rivers Museum and it felt as if I’d entered into a secret. Whilst the Natural History is all lightness, reflections and openness; the Pitt Rivers is all darkness and shadows and crowded closeness. It’s literally stuffed full of wonders from all far reaches of the world, crammed into rich, dark curiosity cabinets, some spindly legged, others sturdy and squat. Blank eyes stare from a myriad of masks, religious offerings implore, mummies sleep, clothes and instruments sit quiet and idle. Shadows criss-cross on the stony floor with its church-like grates and you have the feeling of being somewhere sacred, so much so that a whisper feels too invasive. You are amidst beauty in so many forms, treading in the footsteps of explorers and archaeologists of old; party to something bigger and beyond yourself; the very footsteps of mankind; and indeed you are the living exhibit of it too!
There’s such a sense of age and wisdom breathing throughout the museums so all the while you’re there you feel like you’re growing. I positively sprouted at least two inches in height and most importantly left with a spring in my step, a smile about the face and eyes opened wider.